Trip Report – The Madigan Line Part 1
Monday July 3 – Thursday July 27, 2023
Rob & Alec Drummond – Nissan Patrol
Phillip Favaloro – Nissan Patrol
After a lengthy wait to see if we could traverse the Madigan Line, as many tracks and roads were closed due to the unseasonal rains in Central and northern Australia, we were on our way west, though we had to keep an eye on access east of Camp 16.
Phillip had left home on the Saturday, taking a more relaxing time getting to our meeting place in Renmark. Rob and Alec left home on the Monday and had an overnight stay at Mamanga Campground in Yanga National Park near Balranald, on the banks of the Murrumbidgee River. It rained consistently overnight and we awoke with pools of water in the tent. We dried it out as best we could, then spent a few hours exploring the Yanga Woolshed and associated buildings, built in the 1880’s, before heading off to meet Phillip in Renmark on the Tuesday afternoon.
The next morning, we went shopping for fresh fruit and veggies as we weren’t able to bring them through the quarantine restrictions around the Riverina and Riverlands areas. Our destination for the night was Peterborough, so we got on our way and passed many orchards of oranges, almonds and other produce along the way. Needing fuel, we checked the South Australian ‘ShouldIFuel’ app and found the cheapest enroute to be at Terowie. We stopped there and found that the owner of the service station is the owner of the ‘R&R Beadbreaker & Tyre Refitting Tool’.
We arrived at Peterborough and set up camp within the local caravan and camping ground. After a yummy dinner, and doing some experimental photography of the starry night, we went to bed. We woke up next morning to find a bit of water in our camp, or more correctly our own lake, after heavy overnight rains, so we spent a few hours drying out yet again. Wanting to evade any more inundations, we looked up the BOM app and found that the southern areas of SA were due rain over the coming days. “Let’s head north” was the cry, so we changed plans and made tracks towards Woomera. We were going to check out Bendelby Ranges 4WD and Farm Stay, but that will have to wait until next time. Along the way we visited Port Germein, reputedly the longest wooden jetty in the southern hemisphere built in the 1880’s. We walked the 1676metres to the end (and back!) in the blustery winds before driving to Port Augusta then then north towards Woomera.
We arrived early evening and set up camp at the Wommera Campground. The internet promised grassed tent sites, but we found red sand instead! We decided to spend a day exploring the township of Woomera, and even though the museum was closed for renovations, we still had a very interesting time looking at the open air displays and also the displays within the visitor’s centre.
Next morning, we checked the BOM and the various road condition websites again, and it looked as though completing the Madigan was not possible. The best option for us was to continue onwards and the check at Mt Dare before making a final decision.
We already had a Plan B and Plan C in case we weren’t able to get through to Birdsville. Plan B was to start at Mt Dare and go as far as the Colson Track on the Madigan, head south, then back to Mt Dare along the French Line. Plan C was to traverse the Madigan then turn north and have a trip up the Hay River track and come out at Jervois Station on the Plenty Highway.
Our current plan, Plan D, was to use up a couple of days, heading towards Alice Springs and once there replenish our food and fuel supplies, then on to Mt Dare using the Binns Track.
So, on the road again, we headed towards Coober Pedy. Not far up the highway, we came across Lake Hart, the largest salt lake in SA.
Normally there is no water in the lake, but there was at the time. We spent some time exploring the shores of the lake and found remnants of the salt mine that ran from 1918 until the 1930’s. Now at Coober Pedy, again, we were promised grassed tent sites by the internet and again we were misled! Tomorrow would be Sunday so we decided we would attend the Catacomb Church. Like so many ‘buildings’ in Coober Pedy, this church is underground. When we got there, it appeared as though we might be the only ones attending, but as the 9:30 scheduled time became closer, the little church was nearly full. Like us, many of the congregation were travellers. After the service we went to the town lookout then hit the road for Erldunda.
At Erldunda, the sunset was ‘typical outback’ with the colours changing through pinks, oranges and purples. The next morning was chilly as usual, and we awoke to a variety of animals next to the campsite, one of which being a camel.
Phillip quickly became friends with the camel until the camel decided it wanted to reach over the fence and try to eat the wheel bag and the open door frame and the driver’s side mirror. Not content with being shooed away, the camel then tried to eat the driver’s door on Phillip’s Patrol, leaving tooth marks in the paintwork!
A quick exit from the camp site and on our way to the Henbury Meteorite Craters. Once off Stuart Highway, we encountered the effects of recent rain events, with the road into the Craters, flooded in spots. The craters are a short walk away from the carpark and worth the visit. The craters are clearly defined and have a multitude of flora within them, as well as a surprise with one having a permanent water source providing an oasis in the desert.
Our overnight goal was Rainbow Valley Conservation Reserve which is only 20kms off the highway. The track in was nearly completely corrugated which made for slow and uncomfortable going, however the view of the afternoon sun on the rock face jutting out of the desert was worth the effort. We set up camp and then set off for a walk around the ‘valley’, completing each of the walks on offer. Rob cooked a green chicken curry for everyone which was heartily enjoyed. We topped that off with apple pie and ice-cream (yes, ice-cream – from the freezer!) After cleaning up we set about doing some more experimental night photography.
After snapping a few successful photos, we were off to bed. Next morning was decidedly frosty and we even had ice on the inside of our tent. Today would be spent at Alice restocking fuel and food before heading to Mt Dare.
We were also keen to get some internet access so we could check if the conditions ahead had turned more favourable.
(to be continued)
Rob Drummond